I'm working on an Antarctica piece for Tim Leffel's Perceptive Travel website.
And so far, it isn't doing what I want it to do. I'm still wrangling. Maybe tomorrow it will cooperate.
But as I was bemoaning my situation, my pal Edward (last seen gloating that I hadn't been to South Georgia and he had) reminded me of a detail I'd forgotten.
"Don't forget the stink of the penguins."
Oh yeah. That's right. Penguins hang out together and poop on the rocks. When you have a big group of penguins, you have a big penguin poop smell.