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I'd thought I might try to see the Moustache Brothers—though the show sounded more ethical than good—or maybe head to the street where gold leaf is applied to everything, but in the end, I ended up in a shared taxi (4,000 kyat) for two hours. The traffic in the center of Mandalay was that bad.
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Though my hotel did. I was staying at a crumbling but pleasant place called Silver Swan. In the lobby, another tourist approached the reception desk while I was collecting my key.
Tourist: "Why doesn't the wi-fi work?"
Hotel clerk: "It doesn't work?"
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Tourist: "I'm not very good with technology."
Me: "It's not because of you and technology, it's just..."
Hotel clerk: "Magic." (laughs.)
Me: "Yes, black magic."
Hotel clerk: "Please be patient. Burma is just starting."
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