Saturday, August 13, 2016

Day Job in Sherman Oaks

I was off to a comic book store in Sherman Oaks on Saturday, to support the appearance of the writer and colorist of the graphic novel I edited.

This went well. The kids were adorable. My assistant and the book's designer were also there.

The girl power is strong in this one.



Friday, August 12, 2016

Now Santa Can Come In

Houses are money pits. This we know.

And sometimes we expect the hit, and sometimes we're surprised when it comes.

"Your chimney leaks," MK told me a while back. He'd been inside my little ground-floor studio during a thunderstorm.

"Awesome," was my reply. Just what I needed.

I went to my building inspection report dated 4/1/2015. Let's see...


Oh. 


It wasn't so much I'd overlooked that part of the report as I couldn't get any chimney guys to call me back. My friend Tracy had a chimney guy who'd worked on the house she lives in, and though she'd been a bit annoyed at his "now, lemme tell you a thing or two, little lady" attitude, the work had been fine. I'd probably called the guy ten times, and just gotten full voice mail every time.

So I took to Yelp, and dug around until I found one that seemed respectable. Theron took a look, said there was good news and bad news. The good news was the sealed front chimney had nothing venting into it, and they'd be happy to removed the old bricks which had been left on the roof from when that stack had been dismantled. And the rear chimney is lined and capped, which was good...but over the years, the mortar had cracked and crumbled. Whoever had dealt with this in the past had simply tarred over it, and then the tar too had cracked.

There were two possible solutions. One was to dismantle and rebuild the chimney. The other was to ask BBF to quietly go up the roof hatch with new tar.

I'm all about the easy fix when it will solve a problem for a good long time, but tarring over a busted chimney seemed like an unexceptional plan to me, so I asked Theron to do the complete rebuild.

His team showed up on time, when they said they would, and did the work they said they'd do. MK had to go over and again ask the nuns next door for access to their driveway and gate, and my tenants in the top-floor apartment were only bothered once, when the workers initially went in through the roof hatch.

I have so far been surprised at the quality of work at each step on my house. I know people have a hard time with contractors, but I've only had responsive, excellent experiences so far. Maybe because I've researched each time and hired people with strong recommendations. Maybe I've just been lucky. But my window guys, my heating guy, my stucco guys, and my chimney guys have all been responsive, smart, and utterly pleasant. And of course, BBF did the kitchens and he does stellar work.

We frequently need to ask the sisters to open their gate.
I have a bit of sticker shock from my house, and I frequently have to remind myself. I got an incredible deal on Craigslist because the previous owners were tired of tenants, lived out of state, and had no idea of the growth spurt about to hit Bergen-Lafayette. Every time I go back home, something new is popping up. Shared bikes. A fancy coffee shop. New condo developments. More work on two empty restaurants.

My chimney will ultimately be a bigger part of a complete investment. For now, it's just another bank account hit with a hell of a view.





Wednesday, August 10, 2016

Touristing the Town

I wanted to go to the Batcave in the Hollywood Hills, but BBF had heard from so many people that he shouldn't miss the Museum of Jurassic Technology. I hadn't been, because it's located on the moon from where I live and work, so on Sunday, we caught the bus south, then west, and it dropped us off in front of the front door.

I was excruciatingly bored within three minutes, plus it was musty inside and my body was asking me if it could freak out. I kept saying no, and hoping BBF would finish reading the dark, tiny exhibits. I must not be the flavor of quirky that most others seems to be, since the vast majority of quirky people love this odd little exhibit space. I can't stress enough how quickly I was done with it, how ready I was to leave, how baffled I was by the appeal. (Which is one of the reasons I prefer to travel alone. How much do you like waiting for others?) I'm glad it's done and over with, simply so next time someone rattles off a list of their favorite spots in LA, I can say "Yes, I've been there, maybe you need more quirk in your life." 

We stopped by In N Out Burger for a special taste of Los Angeles. "It's kind of like Shake Shack," I explained, as BBF looked at me somewhat baffled as to why I was asking him to eat fast food. I think we had our fill of both the museum and the sliders. 

We were almost to the beach anyway, so we caught the bus the rest of the way to Venice. The bus dropped us off near where I lived in 1995, in a part of Venice that is now hip but was then skeevy, like many of my former habitats. We walked along the manmade canals of Venice, strolled the beach (which is essentially unchanged to my eyes), and caught the bus east for the long journey home. 

Topping the day off was our trip to the Egyptian, which involved no buses as it's a ten-minute walk from my apartment. Such a relief to sit in a dark room watching Thunderbolt and Lightfoot instead of dragging ourselves all over town. 

For the rest of BBF's visit, I went to work during the day, and he'd pick out something for the evening, like dinner and the new Star Trek movie (thank goodness we saw a good movie on Sunday night—kinda took the sting off). On Wednesday morning, he trundled off to the Flyaway bus stop in Hollywood, and I headed north to my job, as I always do on weekdays, and sometimes on weekends.


Saturday, August 06, 2016

A Day on Catalina


We left the breakfast place a bit appalled--the masses had descended and the experience had become wholly unpleasant, plus we couldn't get anyone's attention to bring us the bill. Then, we had the fun of trying to find a caffeinated morning beverage for me--Jack's Country Kitchen featured old-school coffee, the watery brown guck that was once the mainstay of roadside America before espresso seeped in via chain money-grabs. Not that I'm complaining. I remember the days of asking for coffee and ice in separate cups, because people had no idea what I was talking about when I'd ask if they had iced coffee.

We used my phone apps to find a little coffee godsend, Catalina Coffee and Cookie Co, and BBF tolerated sitting around for 20 minutes while I sipped my addiction. Of course, we had nowhere else to be, it being 8 on a Saturday morning. 

I had a Groupon for two hours of electric bike rental for two with Tour Catalina, so we wandered up to the e-bike place at 9. Neither of us had been on an electric bike before. 

The guy in charge of the bikes explained to us the best places to ride, we put on the supplied helmets and off we went, a bit wobbly at first, but it got easier as we rode. 

Up the hill we went to the Wrigley Memorial and Botanic Garden, zipping past pedestrians, hikers, and the campground we'd have stayed at if we'd stayed on Catalina instead of the Queen Mary. We left our bikes at the entrance gate and walked up to the memorial, looking around at the island. 

It was beautiful, in a way, but there was a morning haze over the island. This disappeared a bit later, when we zipped up a mountain one-way road and gazed out over Avalon, but it was a teensy bit disappointing at our first stop. Though the up side was the morning temperature, which wasn't a million degrees, fortunately. 

We walked through the garden, reading explanations of plants, then zipped back through town to the mountainside. I loved the electric bike! The only problem is with the battery pack, these things aren't light. I couldn't life one up or down so much as a curb. 

We gave our bikes back at 11, wandered through a museum with an exhibit on Betty Page, enjoyed lunch, headed to the Casino, which was more like a place for big bands to play than an actual casino, took a walk to the hotel on the far end of town, caught a shuttle bus back, and exhausted after taking a spin around Avalon, managed a few rounds of skee ball in an arcade before collapsing on the ferry back to the mainland. 

I'd booked us to San Pedro after noticing the Silver Line Express Bus was right outside the San Pedro port. We walking from the ferry port through the container industrial equipment, me again fighting off the nostalgia of departing here in January of 2001 on my first trip around the world. 

We found the bus stop, and a friendly local man confirmed we were waiting at the right place. The ride home went a lot faster than the ride on the pokey Blue Line had gone, but still, when we switched to the Red Line to Hollywood, BBF couldn't help but say "Please, no more buses." 

He'd had enough. 









An Early Commute

When I'd initially gone to the Catalina Express site to purchase two ferry tickets from Long Beach to Catalina, there had been plenty of tickets. Naturally, I did nothing.

By the time I got around to checking again, all the tickets had been purchased except for ones at inconvenient times.

Which is how BBF and I ended up dragging ourselves out of the Queen Mary at five on a Saturday morning.

Ugh. 

Urgh. 

We survived.

I called a Lyft while BBF was in the shower, and after circling around Terminal Island for a bit, we ended up at the ferry.

I'd sprung for Business Class, it being six when we departed. This isn't really terribly different from downstairs, but you get a drink (because everyone wants a drink at six in the morning?) and some chalky carbs.

On the bright side, we were in Catalina by quarter past seven, and we were in Avalon's breakfast hotspot before the rush.

Which, admittedly, if I'd known there was going to be a rush, we'd have gone to a different breakfast spot. The entire ferry clientele appeared to descend on Jack's Country Kitchen about ten minutes after we ordered.

We ate breakfast slowly, mostly because that was the only speed we were being served at, and planned our upcoming day.





Friday, August 05, 2016

To the End of the Blue Line

My cabin on the QE2, 12/2001.
Back on the Blue Line, BBF and I headed on, leaving Watts behind. And on and on. We went all the way to the very end of this metro line, as far as we could go in Long Beach. We rode the entire length of it.

This took forever.

But finally, we were in Long Beach and thirsty. We wandered around looking for a place to get a drink, stumbling over a pedestrian mall across from the convention center, then heading over on the free local bus to the Queen Mary. 

The Queen Mary is docked permanently in Long Beach, and used as a hotel and tourist attraction. I'd previously glimpsed it from the nearby Long Beach Container Terminal aka Terminal Island, where in 2001, I'd left the US for the other side of the world on my first freighter voyage, aboard the Direct Kiwi.

8/2016, the Queen Mary State Room.
That same journey, the year-long 2001 version of MariesWorldTour.com, had me journey back to the States in December aboard the QE2. She's currently deteriorating in port in Dubai, tragically. Outrageously. One of the most historic, fabulous liners in history, just hanging out and falling apart.

I tried to not think about the Queen Mary's sister ship as BBF and I walked across the parking lot in the afternoon sun, boarding the Queen Mary and checking into out room for the evening.


The long hallways and our state room looked incredibly similar to my cabin on the QE2 some 15 years prior.

We left our bags, hurrying upstairs to get audio tour headsets. We walked the ship back and forth, following the recorded instructions to the bridge, the WWII exhibit (BFF's father had traveled as a soldier on-board the Queen Mary during the war). Eventually, after visiting the engine room, we were just too tired to continue. We turned in our headsets and headed to dinner.

I enjoyed the ship, but the lack of the distant rumble of ever-running engines was a bit odd. I've traveled around the world on four freighters, the QE2, MV Lyubov Orlova (now known as the rat/ghost ship), assorted ferries, and even a yacht in the Galapagos, and the constant of being at sea is the sound of the engines. And of course the roll of the waves.

Being docked with no engines running was odd to me, but this feeling of something being not-quite-right was pushed aside and overridden by two other gut reactions. One was the sense of tragedy over the fate of the QE2, the other the sharp pain of suppressed nostalgia, as I stared through the porthole over at the world's largest container port, the origin of my most incredible trip and one I'll never surpass, if only because after two trips around the world, running a company in Cairo, and living in...eight?...countries, I am seldom surprised by adventuring. I won't get that back, and that hurts a little.

The giraffe-like constructs of the industrial port called to me, taunted me. Join...us... no...wait...you...have...a...job...

For now, I'd have to settle for a night on the tourist ship.

Bridge
Engine room 
Propellor
Leaving the ship the next morning

Touring by Metro

BBF was in town last week, so I did a bit more here in LA than my usual eat-work-sleep routine. Well, we did plenty more eating, like at the Monday night half-price menu at a place called Off-Vine, or the regular menu at a place on Cahuenga called Running Goose. We went to the Egyptian to see Thunderbolt and Lightfoot, and the Arclight with the Cinerama to see the new Star Trek film (but it was in the multiplex, not the dome). I learned a bit about how to play my new ukulele (BBF plays guitar), and we even walked up to Franklin Village to eat one night, but the crowds were too thick and we ended up at the Oaks.

And we did some sightseeing. Last time BBF was in town, we packed a lot in—Griffith Observatory, DTLA, Hollywood of course, a look at Burbank, and the Grand Canyon, Vegas, and Hoover Dam. This time we kept a saner pace, but still busy enough to classify as a Marie-special.

I took an early Friday—something we're allowed to do in the summer, an old publishing habit that moved west with us—and we headed by metro Blue Line toward Long Beach.

We stopped at Watts Tower to see a bit of public art, then continued on to Long Beach. Come back for more tomorrow!












Saturday, July 16, 2016

Simple Joy

Years before he died, my friend Edward Readicker-Henderson, a well-known travel journalist, asked me what I'd like him to leave me in his will. I said "Nothing, I have enough stuff." But once his will was executed, our mutual friend Amanda wrote to say he'd left me a stuffed llama as a gag gift. I know he laughed when thinking of my reaction upon learning I was getting a stuffed llama, but I changed my mind about wanting nothing after his death. Did I want just a stuffed mangy llama to commemorate our 13-year friendship?

No, I wanted something more. I asked for, and was sent, one of his ukeleles.

He'd once interviewed Jake Shimabukuro, and written a story on ukuleles for Islands magazine. It stuck with me because he had come away so amazed by Shimabukuro's skill.

Edward wrote a lot of stories about travel keeping him going in his last years. It's hard for me to NOT travel now, and a certain well-known comic book artist who happens to be one of my supervisors had a good laugh about this just yesterday--he knows too well it's hard for me to go to a desk every day instead of seeking out a curious adventure. He followed along on the original MariesWorldTour, the 2001 edition.  (Of course, going to work in Los Angeles is its own adventure.)

So I have a ukelele now, one built by Edward's brother, Don, who is also in the Islands article. And oddly, to me, this uke doesn't represent music. It doesn't even represent travel, or my need to create mini-adventures when I can't tackle the whole world.

It represents this: Untarnished amazement.

If Edward could be blown away by someone's skill on a ukulele, that's a lesson.

It's okay to be amazed once in a while.

Sunday, June 26, 2016

Killing Your Bucket List

I just finished preserving a recently deceased friend's website. That means I put everything into past tense and added a few lines, such as RIP. It was frustrating, because he and I both made our personal sites in iWeb, which is long since orphaned by Apple, and it's hard to manage without specific files, which only exist on the computer the person made the site on. I don't even have my own, and I certainly don't have his.

But I cobbled it together in Dreamweaver, copying and pasting code when the drag-and-drop wasn't happening. And it's done now, not updated, merely archived. There for readers of his work, his friends, his family, and maybe to help me feel like I could do something.

I meet Edward Readicker-Henderson in late summer of 2003. We're both writers, though he worked for magazines, and I took the slower, less profitable book-writing path. He liked to write about travel, as I do, but he actually made a living at it.

A year or so later, ERH went on a press trip to Jordan, where he met Amanda Castleman. We soon met over email, and before you knew it, Amanda, ERH, and I had the virtual watercooler. This was pre-Facebook, so we gabbed endlessly via emails, the three of us freelancing from home or from our laptops from any number of global locations.

We were fast friends for more than a decade, the three of us. You might remember seeing Amanda show up here occasionally, or even as a special guest in Sydney during MariesWorldTour.com 2011. But as ERH become more tired, and Amanda and I stayed busy or used social media to keep up, we drifted off to an extent. He had always been ill--in fact, he used his illness as a point in his work--but he became steadily more sick. I can't say more seriously ill, because he had in fact had very little time to live on many occasions. It doesn't get much more serious than that.

You can cheat death many times, but the house always wins. And we weren't surprised, not much, but in a way, we were. He'd bounced back enough times to where nothing would surprise us.

I was somewhat relieved for him when his pain passed, and he went in the best-possible way, in palliative care after having been visited by family and friends. But it still hit me today, while sorting out his virtual record of being. I can't ask his advice or send him a joke, or ignore his emails when I'm exasperated, then guiltily write a few days later. There's one less person in the world who actually "gets" me now, and there weren't many to begin with.

Here is Edward Readicker-Henderson speaking about the nonsense of having a bucket list. Those are my coffin photos he borrowed. But you know, he didn't go in the airplane coffin after all. He chose cremation. Which is just as well--I am not even sure you can get one of those coffins without a special trip to Ghana.

I don't have a travel or experience bucket list, but that might just be because I've long since caught on. Life's not about country counting or bragging (even just to yourself). Getting on a plane and visiting a location doesn't make you a better person than someone who stayed home. I don't know what the point of everything is, or how to have the best life one can--all I know is there's one less person I can say something like that to now. One less person who won't judge me poorly for not being positive and cheerful. One less person who won't judge me when I snarkily say you can't magic your life or your health with your mind. I'll miss you, my friend.  

Sunday, June 12, 2016

The Great Escape

A few months ago, I had a particularly bad work e-mail weekend.

My work e-mail comes to my phone. Usually, I answer whatever seems pressing, and leave the rest for Monday. But there was one weekend where someone went so over the top that I turned my work e-mail off on my phone and started fantasizing about where in the world no Internet could reach me.

There aren't many places. The salt flats of Bolivia. Certain spots in the ocean between French Polynesian islands. Even Cuba has connections in the post office and in upscale hotel lobbies. Even Burma has it, as does Bhutan, Tibet...but you know where you can get out of range without an expensive plane ticket?

The bottom of the Grand Canyon.

I knew this from the rafting trip I took there in 2008, when I went from Lees Ferry to Bar 10 Ranch over six days with Arizona River Runners. I've booked at the last minute via an agent in Flagstaff, because I reasoned they had access to multiple inventories, and that had worked out great.

What if, I thought, I went back to the bottom of the Grand Canyon? Could I get any farther from the office without using vacation time? But how could I justify a trip there given how expensive it is and how I'd already spent six days at the bottom of the Canyon, (not to mention the mule trip in 2002, a North Rim trip in 2012, and various other South Rim trips, including one just a few months ago?

Easy. One thing I'm good at is justifying travel.

I'd finish rafting, flying IN at Bar 10 this time, and continuing to the end in Lake Mead.

Arizona River Runners had a sale trip listed, which I snapped up. I didn't have a lot of my gear with me, though I'd grabbed a bunch to bring back last time I'd been home. I had to buy used Tevas on eBay because mine had split on the 2008 trip, and I didn't know what had happened to the lilac-colored rainsuit (I probably threw it away due to hideousness). I paid for the trip, bought a same-morning-as-the-trip one-way ticket from Burbank-Vegas, and a return for Vegas-LAX for the evening of the trip's end, and sorted out my gear.

And headed off the grid.