Morning Tourist

I was hating myself last night for planning to go up the Empire State Building for sunrise today. I'd have to get on a Citibike at 4:30 am to be sure to get to the Grove Street PATH in plenty of time for the 4:49 train to 33rd Street. My instructions were to be in line outside the 34th Street entrance no later than 5:30.

I showered last night and steeled myself for no food or coffee until at least 7. Nothing would be open before sunrise this time of year, and I didn't want to get up early enough to make coffee at home. I scoured Google Maps for options--indeed there were none save Duane Reade and 7-11. Herald Square isn't known for its 24-hour diners.

Riding a Citibike so early was fine. There was no traffic and the Jersey City bike lanes are well lit. And while the trains only run every 20-30 minutes that early, they are fast once they get started.

At 33rd Street, there were two food carts, so I was wrong about no food options--one was a halal cart should I have a craving for rice or chicken (I didn't), and another a breakfast cart where a man sold me a two-dollar croissant, which I consumed while standing in line at the Empire State Building. Herald Square also featured an enormous bouncy castle, its security guard pacing back and forth by the front entrance.

Gotta keep that bouncy castle safe.

The Empire State Building felt like it had nearly as many staff at 5:30 am as it did tourists, and I overheard one of them talking about how well paid they are for doing the sunrise shift.

Up we went and...the morning was overcast, the 86th floor featuring a lot of chilly wind on this August morning. For a while, all us visitors were disappointed. But then the sun came out and artfully lit the cityscape below, dabbing pale yellow across the gray morning, highlighting the sea of skyscrapers below.

What a glorious morning.

And finally, the sun was up and the drama was behind us. We headed out through the gallery, and it was too early still for restaurants, so I got a latte and spent an hour in that little triangle park where you go into the PATH train at night.

Finally, I headed up to the Cloisters for its 10 am opening. I'd only been once, dropping off a friend in...1989? Maybe 1990 at the latest. I was here to see the unicorn tapestries.

They too were glorious.